Tuesday, February 1, 2011

The Dades Valley



This valley, after Tinehir, is famous for roses.  


Taken from wikipedia

The Dades Valley in Morocco is also known as the Valley of the Roses, as it is here where the fragrant rose oil and rose water is produced for the country, and the landscapes are a sea of pink Persian roses. Their beauty and subtle aromas fill the air, and to farmers in the area, harvesting the petals of these delicate, yet perfect, crops is done with love and not seen as hard labor. To celebrate the wealth and success of the harvest, the Dades Valley hosts the annual Rose Festival.

El Kelaa M’Gouna is the only settlement in the area, and is home to the two massive rose water factories of the region. Rose water is quite an expensive commodity in Morocco and is used not only for its fragrance but in traditional cooking as well. The reason for its price tag is because of the fact that the four thousand two hundred kilometers of rose hedges can only produce one thousand four hundred liters of the product. The process uses approximately three thousand kilograms of rose petals to extract a liter of rose oil. Visitors to the festival will therefore see tons of rose petals being transported to the factories to extract the precious oils, leaving a trail of rose scent lingering in the air.

Transportation






We stopped in Tinehir for lunch and I took the opportunity to get some photos.  These are typical of everywhere in Morocco except Ouarzazate.   Oz is different in so many ways from the rest of Morocco.  It is modern, extremely clean, well laid out, lots of  living greens, and I have never seen a donkey here.  It is, however, not representative of Morocco and one would be remiss if Oz was all he saw much the same as if Marrakech was all or Agadir or...

When entering the city last night I said that it felt like a breath of fresh air.

On the way home



Back in our little red Honda rental car, on our way home, we passed a young herder and took this photo of his camels.

You can see the mountains are starting here.  Actually it is such a short distance  from the dunes to seeing the snow capped  Atlas ( just a short drive from where we took this camel photo).

Gnawa

From wikipedia-

Gnawa music

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Gnawa musicians performing in a street in Morocco

Gnawa music is a mixture of sub-Saharan African, Berber, and Arabic religious songs and rhythms. It combines music and acrobatic dancing. The music is both a prayer and a celebration of life. Though many of the influences that formed this music can be traced to sub-Saharan Africa, and specifically, the Western Sahel, its practice is concentrated in north Africa, mainly Morocco. (See Gnawa for more details)

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[edit]Music

In a Gnawa song, one phrase or a few lines are repeated over and over throughout a particular song though the song may last a long time. In fact, a song may last several hours non-stop. The norm, though, is that what seems to the unintiniated to be one long song is actually a series of chants, which has to do with describing the various spirits (in Arabic mlouk (sing. melk)), so what seems to be a 20 minute piece may be a whole series of pieces, a suite for Sidi Moussa, Sidi Hamou, Sidi Mimoun or the others. But because they are suited for adepts in a state of trance, they go on and on, and have the effect, that they provoke trance from different angles.

The melodic language of the stringed instrument is closely related to their vocal music and to their speech patterns, as is the case in much African music. It is a language that emphasizes on the tonic and fifth, with quavering pitch-play, especially pitch-flattening, around the third, the fifth, and sometimes the seventh. This is the language of the blues.

krakebs or Qraqab

Gnawa music is characterized by instrumentation. The large heavy iron castanets known as qraqab (or krakebs large iron castanets; Ar. قراقب) and a three -string lute known commonly as a hajhuj (or gimbri) are central to Gnawa music.(Schuyler, 2008) The rhythms of the Gnawa, like their instrumentations are distinctive. Particularly Gnawa is characterized by interplay between triple and duple meters. The “big bass drums” mentioned by Schuyler are not typically featured in a more traditional setting. (Schaefer, 2005)

Gnawa have venerable stringed-instrument traditions involving both bowed lutes like the gogo and plucked lutes like the gimbri (Ar. چنبري; also called hajhuj, Ar. هجهوج or "sentir" Ar. سنتير), a three-stringed bass instrument. The Gnawa also use large drums called tbel (Ar. طبل ) in their ritual music. The Gnawa hajhuj has strong historical and musical links to West African lutes like the Hausa halam, a direct ancestor of the banjo.

Gnawa hajhuj players use a technique which 19th century American minstrel banjo instruction manuals identify as "brushless drop-thumb frailing". The "brushless" part means the fingers do not brush several strings at once to make chords. Instead, the thumb drops repeatedly in a hypnotically rhythmic pattern against the freely-vibrating bass string producing a throbbing drone, while the first two or three fingers of the same (right) hand pick out, often percussive patterns in a drum-like, almost telegraphic manner.

[edit]Rituals

Gnawas perform a complex liturgy, called lila or derdeba. The ceremony recreates the first sacrifice and the genesis of the universe by the evocation of the seven main manifestations of the divine demiurgic activity. It calls the seven saints and supernatural entities (mluk, Arabic: ملوك) represented by seven colors, as a prismatic decomposition of the original light/energy. The derdeba is jointly animated by a maâlem (master musician) at the head of his troop and by moqadma or shuwafa(clairvoyante) who is in charge of the accessories and clothing necessary to the ritual.

During the ceremony, the clairvoyante determines the accessories and clothing as it becomes ritually necessary. Meanwhile, the maâlem, using the guembri and by burning incense, calls the saints and the supernatural entities to present themselves in order to take possession of the followers, who devote themselves to ecstatic dancing.

Inside the brotherhood, each group (zriba; Arabic: زريبة) gets together with an initiatory moqadma (Arabic: مقدمة), the priestess that leads the ecstatic dance called thejedba (Arabic: جذبة), and with the maâlem, who is accompanied by several players of krakebs.

Preceded by an animal sacrifice that assures the presence of the spirits, the all-night ritual begins with an opening that consecrates the space, the aâda ("habit" or traditional norm; Arabic: عادة), during which the musicians perform a swirling acrobatic dance, playing the krakebs.

The mluk (sing. melk) are abstract entities that gather a number of similar jinn (genie spirits). The participants enter a trance state (jedba) in which they may perform spectacular dances. By means of these dances, participants negotiate their relationships with the mluk either placating them if they have been offended or strengthening an existing relationship. The mluk are evoked by seven musical patterns, seven melodic and rhythmic cells, who set up the seven suites that form the repertoire of dance and music of the Gnawa ritual. During these seven suites, seven different types of incense are burned and the dancers are covered by veils of seven different colours.

Each one of the seven families of mluk is populated by many "characters" identifiable by the music and by the footsteps of the dance. Each melk is accompanied by its specific colour, incense, rhythm and dance. These entities, treated like "presences" (called hadra, Arabic: حضرة) that the consciousness meets in ecstatic space and time, are related to mental complexes, human characters, and behaviors. The aim of the ritual is to reintegrate and to balance the main powers of the human body, made by the same energy that supports the perceptible phenomena and divine creative activity.

Later, the guembri opens the treq ("path," Arabic: طريق), the strictly encoded sequence of the ritual repertoire of music, dances, colors and incenses, that guide in the ecstatic trip across the realms of the seven mluk, until the renaissance in the common world, at the first lights of dawn.

Almost all Moroccan brotherhoods, such as the Issawa or the Hamadsha, relate their spiritual authority to a saint. The ceremonies begin by reciting that saint's written works or spiritual prescriptions (hizb, Arabic: حزب) in Arabic. In this way, they assert their role as the spiritual descendants of the founder, giving themselves the authority to perform the ritual. Gnawa, whose ancestors were neither literate nor native speakers of Arabic, begin the lila by bringing back, through song and dance their origins, the experiences of their slave ancestors, and ultimately redemption.

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Farewell







We bid farewell to the young men who work at the camp cooking, cleaning, and looking after the guests and got in the 4x4 with Ali for another fun filled ride back to the auberge.

BUT on the way Houssaine, unbeknown to me, had arranged for a special stop in the small village of Khamlia.  Khamlia is the home of Gnawa (also spelled Gnaoua) music in Morocco and I have been looking forward to hearing it played authentically, without fusion, for years.

We were greeted and escorted into a room and given time to look at all the memorabilia on the walls.  Photos from 1900 to the present, instruments, documents etc.  This room was a museum to Gnawa. Then a troup of five musicians came in and they entertained us for more than an hour with chanting, drumming, and dancing.  I was brought to tears.  The beauty of the music was enchanting and the spiritual nature, clear.  

Tea and nuts were served to us.

Another  historic moment in my life.

Early in the morning




I was the first one awake and took a few shots of our camp.  The one with the yellow "door" open is my room.  I tried to take a picture inside, but it was just too dark.  The nomad tents are dark brown and keep all light out which is great in the summer heat. Beds were mattresses on the floor.  The sand was covered with richly coloured berber rugs.  There were as many blankets as needed.  I only used what was on the bed, but Houssaine told me he used four more!!!!! Some Berber, eh?

Also looking up at our dune just after sunrise.

Inside and let the drumming begin




The fire, now only hot coals,  has been moved inside. Here are a few photos.  The dark one is without a flash and as it was in reality.

Houssaine is an accomplished Berber drummer and was anxious to start.  Ali, in the yellow headscarf,  our regular driver, and another Ali, the owner are all ready, but the drums are not.  Apparently, they need to be heated up before use.

Eventually, both the men and the drums were ready.  They also had castanets, which were the forerunners of the Spanish type.

Tea and drumming for quite some time.  I absolutely loved it.  If I closed my eyes it almost put me in a trance.  Fortunately, it always stopped in time.

Later, dinner was served at a nearby table - salad, bread, olives, tagine, coffee or tea, and oranges for dessert.

More drumming.

Outside to view the stars, but too chilly to stay out for long.  Also, the sky was not as clear as it could have been.  None the less, some constellations were pointed out to me. I felt sorry for any tourists in the area, though, especially if this was their first desert experience because the sky with the thousands of stars in 01 was the most awesome sight to behold.

I left the men and retired to my tent for a little shut eye.  I hoped that more drumming would lull me off to sleep.