Update

Ok, it is now 9 pm on Monday and I think I can settle down enough to update. The last weeks have played havoc with my sense of timing. My Berber family here (Houssaine) has had several emergencies. Not the least of which was when his nephew was mountain climbing and fell and broke his leg and came to Oz to have it set. Then, same nephew, had "a hole in his stomach", which I suspect was a perforated ulcer. He came to Oz on Wednesday last week for surgery. On Thursday, Houssaine picked his sister up at the bus station to go to her son. On Friday about 6 pm I got a hand delivered message from Houssaine that we were leaving at 6:30 pm for Todra (with sister and nephew) in a taxi. Quick pack and off we went.

We arrived at night about three hours later and the taxi dropped the sister and nephew off at their home and we continued on down the road to Houssaine's wife's brother's home. I had met him (Driss) before in Oz. I was left there and Houssaine went back to his sister's until morning.

Well, let me tell you that Driss lives right in Todra Gorge, one of the most famous tourist spots in Morocco. He has a business there. He does horse riding tours in the gorge and mountains. Housssaine, Driss, and his wife Malikia showed me to my room. WOW it was an ensuite built of concrete and into the rock. How spectacular. I have some photos, but they are terrible.

In the morning, Houssaine returned from his sister's and we set out to walk in the gorge (photos attached). It is really beautiful. While we were walking we came upon a group of donkeys drinking from the stream and the nomad women from the mountains were washing their clothes. It is difficult to get photos of them, but I tried and that is what you will see. There is also a photo of Mustapha and the horse he rode down. Mustapha is the caretaker of the horses, but in his off time goes to this tourist walking area of the gorge to sell "jewellery" to the tourists. BTW it is in this area that Houssaine and his wife are from. They lived about a three hour hike up in the mountains. Houssaine was more than willing to take me there, but my body was not. It would have been wonderful, but something I must accept I cannot do.

A snack

Just ran across the street to get a couple of freshly baked baguettes.  Am having bread, cheese, olives and a drink (or two) of Pastis for dinner.  We had a great breakfast at our bivouac and tagine for lunch on the road, so this will suffice.  I really will miss the bread here.  Forget about the bread we get at home.  Here it is baked several times a day and I never buy bread more than an hour out of the oven!!!  I bought two baguettes and it cost less than $0.40.  How much, I am not sure, but I gave 5 dhs (approx 40 cents) and got change.

The long bus ride home

Leaving Tan Tan and Fatima and Auday was bittersweet, but I'll meet up with her again in Casa and we are on the same flight back to Canada, but I don't know when I'll see Auday in the near future and I really love him.  He is special.

On the way home I took many photos, but the ones I want to show you are of the Argan trees.  The fruit is on them now, but not ripe.  When they are ripe goats climb the trees to eat the fruit.  I am sorry I didn't get to witness this spectacle.

We made our way from the sea with its desert scape, up through the green areas, to the mountains and finally arrived in the plateau and the clean, modern city of Ouarzazate. 

On that long journey I didn't sleep a wink.  For the first few hours, my seat mate was a lovely Moroccan lady who didn't speak any English, but we communicated some.  For the longest leg, from Agadir to Oz a lovely young man asked to sit with me.  Rashid, thirty-two, and an English teacher in Agadir was on his way home to visit his mom in Errachidia and grandmother in Efroud.  He kept me busy the whole trip.  When we arrived in Oz at 3 am he gathered my bags from the hold and made sure we were in the taxi safely.  This is not necessary in Oz, but how kind of him.  

I can say that this trip to Tan Tan and all the places I saw on the way and people I met will be another favourite memory.

Tan Tan Plage

One day Fatima, Auday, Outmane, and I went to the beach for lunch.  The Moroccan way is to buy your meat from the butcher and then take it to a nearby restaurant to have it barbequed and then either eat in the restaurant or take it down to the beach where you can order tea, cola, or coffee and enjoy your lunch.  That is what we did, but Auday knows which butcher to go to and actually it is pretty obvious.  It was interesting because the joint of meat is hanging there and they cut off a piece and either grind it, or cut appropriately. Even the ground beef is that way, no fillers at all.  Here are some photos of that day.  Auday and Outmane left to go back to work and we stayed to while away a few hours at the shore.

Sorry

I am sorry that I didn't finish the posts of my time in Tan Tan, but got a call to be ready in half an hour to go to Todra Gorge and the Sahara dunes.  We have been gone since Friday and I just got home (Monday evening).  What an amazing time!!!  Will finish today and tomorrow.

Camels

I borrowed this photo of the two camel statues guarding the entrance to Tan Tan. The mountains are gone, the land is flat, and the dust blows.  While there we saw a few herds of camels grazing near the road on the way to the beach.  While sitting at a cafe at the beach, a pick up type truck drove by with two camels in the back.  On several occasions I also ate camel.  Auday has long told me that breakfast should consist of camel milk and dates.  I asked several people about this and they all confirmed it, but said that camel milk was not available north - even in the southern city of Ouarzazate. It surely must be the breakfast of real desert men!!!

Tan Tan Ville

As I said before Tan Tan has a wild west feel about it.  The city is the last stop before Western Sahara and Mauritania. The women are covered head to toe, but in brightly coloured fabric.  People are friendlier, too.  They say bonjour madam as you pass by and it is not to sell anything.  In the part of town we were located there are never tourists.  The French with their caravans are at the plage and come into town to the bank which is in the centre.  I spent 10 days here with Fatima and Auday.  At first it was strange when the people openly stared at me. Then, I decided to just smile and as is by magic they smiled back-  men, women, and children.

It was thrilling to see the men from Sahara come in driving old khaki land rovers, all dressed in white or blue.  The dusty roads, the ramshakle buildings, the tiny shops, and the friendliness gave Tan Tan a raw charm that I loved. Donkey carts were seen everywhere. A donkey pulling a flat bed cart carrying avocado, veggies, or oranges for sale was common.  On the corner, right on the street, one man had a table set up and sold eggs there everyday.  Across from him a man sold fresh fish.  Across from the pharmacy was a woodworker who did excellent work.  Next to him a used furniture shop and then the ironworker etc.  All shops closed for about two to two and a half hours for lunch and a break, but they stayed open until at least 8pm and usually 10.

Each tiny shop sold something different.  There were two "variety stores" by Auday, but only one sold cigarettes, only one sold chips, etc.  When we wanted tea they called a lady and within a short time she arrived with a tray of tea, glasses and some sweet she had baked that day.  When we ordered a pizza, they made another call and the pizza was made specifically for us (no Pizza Hut here).

I tried to capture some of Tan Tan in these photos, although I missed the two gigantic statues of camels at the entrance to the city (will try to "borrow" one).

Tan Tan Plage

We went to Tan Tan Plage (beach), ten minutes away, to our hotel.  We were directly on the beach and our balcony was a superb place for relaxing.  Dinner at the hotel and then  sleep with the balcony door open and the sea playing a lullaby for us.

Tan Tan

Available over the counter.  Many drugs to not require a prescription, even birth control pills. This is Auday mixing a magic formula to treat my poor feet.  In only two days my feet were in great shape.  


After spending five wonderful days travelling, we hired a grand taxi to take us to Goulimine and then another to take us to Tan Tan.  We arrived in the afternoon and Fatima met us at the bus/taxi station. We went directly to their pharmacy chatted and had tea.

Auday, Fatima, Gail, Donna, Linda

When we first arrived at the pharmacy in Tan Tan.

The plumber

I got home yesterday morning and guess what?  There was water on the bathroom floor. I really don't know where it is coming from because I turned the water to the toilet off when I left and put the shower hose thing in the sink??? I don't think that this problem will be solved in my lifetime here.  Melissa was correct with her comment about long live the King, but where is he.......in the square with the plumber at the cafe.  The King never arrives when he is supposed and neither do plumbers.  I hope the King does a better job than the plumbers. The people here seem to think so.

Thanks

I have really enjoyed my time in Morocco and now it is time to give thanks.

First, I want to thank Houssaine and his family.  Houssaine found a very nice place for me to live.  His family welcomed me so graciously.  They all did so much to make sure that I was OK.  What an honourable, kind man he is. All of his family have been so welcoming.  His wife and children in Ouarzazate, his brother-in-law and sister-in-law in Todra, and his mother-in law, whom I met while she was visiting Todra from her home in Paris.  The entire Baali extended family made me feel so welcome and I will be forever thankful to them.

Linda, my P.C. friend, without whom New Year's 2011 would not have been such an incredible memory. In addition, having a friend so close, whether on the internet from Canada or here in Morocco helped me more than I can say.  Her introduction to Donna was an extra blessing, never to be forgotten.  Our travels together were highlights, for sure.

Donna, from Taroudant, was a delight.  She welcomed me with kind and open arms. Our trek to Tan Tan was seamless because of her and she is a lot of fun.

Fatima and Auday, my friends from Canada, with whom I spent ten days in Tan Tan finally had the chance to show another part of Morocco.  I had heard about Tan Tan since I first met them, some 11 years ago and was so happy to visit them there. They first went to Tan Tan in 1984 and so know most everything about the area, the people, and the culture.

The people I met "accidently" on the street, bus, in the pharmacy, or or the village, enriched my trip so much.  There are too many to mention, but each one has changed me in some way.

Last, but definitely not least, are the many friends who followed my adventure with comments and emails.  You made it all the more real for me and I thank each of you.  Without this contact I would have felt sad because I have no family, except you, to share with and so I thank so very very much.

I feel that I now have a little better knowledge of Morocco and when I return I will build on it.  I first visited in the early 70's for a few days, and again with Fatima and Auday in 2001 for two months and each time I am enriched by the experiences.

I cannot say that I have had any negative experiences at all, save that $#@ plumber.

Enlarge

Remember, you may click on any photo to enlarge.

Dinner the first night..

in the Moroccan salon at our hotel in Sidi Ifni - a great fresh fish dinner was being prepared while we quenched our thirst.

Caravans

So many French people drive caravans (motorhomes) to the south coast and enjoy FREE camping right on the beach.  This photo was in Sidi Ifni.

Dinner at the Nomad in Ifni

What a great night.  Mohamed, Laurent, Linda, Donna, and Gail.

Back at the top

After that extra difficult climb up to the road (hey, I made it more than half way before getting a ride) we waited and waited and waited for transport. There were now four of us. Our new friend Laurent came too. In this photo there is also a young Moroccan man who did wait for the bus, while we piled into the vehicle of a kind local who drove us back to our hotel.

Day trip to Lagzira

We spent a glorious day here eating and basking in the sun.  It's a long way from this sign on the road down to the shore, a loooooong way and steep.

Sidi Ifni

Sheep head
Chieken
Beef or lamb
We caught the CTM to Tiznit and then a grand taxi to Sidi Ifni.  Here are some photos. Butcher shops all over Morocco look like this.

Weather

It is a beautiful day in Oz.  Not quite like on the coast, but warm enough.  The night temp is supposed to be 10C ....yeah!  Right now it is 1:30 pm and it is 16C.  

Agadir- Wednesday, Jan 12/11

We left Taroudant in the morning and took a grand taxi to Agadir.  Because we had two and a half hours until our bus for Tiznit left we took a petit taxi to the beach, had lunch, and sat  enjoying the sun, the sea, and the tourists.

Tired

I am so tired now I must go to sleep.  It is 5:15 am.  Hopefully the internet will be as fast tomorrow so that I can update on our trek forward.

Nighty night.

Taroudant -

We spent two wonderful days in Taroudant.  I have many photos, but do not want to bore you with them.  It is a lovely city and one that I could consider a possibility for a second home.

Next you will see photos of our short break in Agadir on our way to Sidi Ifni.

Henry, the retired IBM man who is now a Peace Corp Volunteer in Taroudant

Henry's apartment in Taroudant.

Walkway to the Riad Salam

This is a beautiful way to enter the city.  This Riad (traditional hotel) fronts on the main street and exits in the old city behind the wall.

The press

The horse, on break

The old olive oil place

Donna, Linda, Henry, Abdul Karim, and I took a horse and carriage ride here to buy some olive oil. They always get there oil here. We bought that day's first pressed oil.  It is produced in the old fashioned manner.  In these photos you see the whole olives, then the press.  A horse turns it round and round.  He was outside on his break while we were there.

City wall

Taroudant -

A horse and carriage here is not just for tourists.  The locals use it as a means of transport.  The city is enclosed by a wall and is known as the "Grandmother of Marrakech".  I much prefer Taroudant as it is so much less touristic and friendly.  Marrakech has become a tout's haven and tourists are really hassled.

The view

Donna has the best of both worlds.  She lives in a warm area where the people in her village grow many vegetables, oranges, and bananas, but she has a wonderful view of the snow capped Atlas, as well.

A real village

Just outside Donna's door there is livestock.

The outdoor bread oven in Donna's village

This is a real village.

Be it ever so humble, there is no place like home!

It is almost 4 am and I am finally back home in Ouarzazate.  Just for fun, I am going to try to upload some photos because the internet is fast now.  Let's see how it goes.

Still here

It is 8pm Sunday night and I am still in Tan Tan.  Internet service is as sporadic as ever.  We did not go to Agadir today and I am now waiting until 9pm to call CTM (bus) to see if there is an empty seat on the bus!!!  If so, I will begin my 15 hour trek at midnight tonight.  If not, I will be on a local bus (many stops) beginning at 1 pm tomorrow.

I have decided that the next time I come to Morocco I will go directly to Tan Tan and from here explore the area south of here.  It is a disputed area.  The world calls it Western Sahara and the Moroccans call it Morocco.  U.N. forces keep the peace.  Yes, I know that travel sites say it is dangerous and that there are land mines, but on well travelled roads and in cities it is safe.  There are buses everyday from Tan Tan to various places there.  Western Sahara is the area between Morocco and Mauritania. Actually, even driving here on the road just north of Tan Tan, one undergoes extensive checks of passports etc. as it is the last stop before Western Sahara.

I became so interested about this area from seeing all the 4x4's coming in from there.  They are mostly khaki coloured and have real desert men at the wheel. I so wish I had some photos of them, but I don't except in my mind. 

Tan Tan reminds me of the wild wild west in the old movies.  In the movies, the cowboys rode into town to get supplies and get drunk at the saloon.  Here, the desert men ride in on 4x4's, get supplies, and drink tea!!!! But, it has left me with a thrist to see the area south of here. 

I am sad to leave here because it has a raw charm all its own. It is hard to explain and if I had been just passing through I would have said, "What a dump".  The people are gentle and kind.  The women wear brightly a coloured cloth called a  mlafa or some such spelling (can't open yahoo to check)which they wind around their bodies and up over their head.  It is so nice to see all the colour.  I do have photos.  This style of dress comes from Mauritania and is worn by all the women here as opposed to the Moroccan style of dress. 

 I will definitely miss the weather.  Here it is 25C during the day and 15 at night.  In Ouarzazate it is 18C / 1C.

I hear that I am missing a lot of snow there!!!! So sorry.

Photos

No, there still are no new photos.  I have continuously tried to upload them, but even after an hour, nothing.

We are leaving tomorrow for Agadir, I think. Fatima and Auday need to go there on business and I will ride with them, spend the night in Agadir and then bus to Ouarzazate. If not, I will leave Tan Tan Monday morning.

   The internet service there MIGHT be Ok. in Agadir.

Answer to Melissa

Melissa, that's a good question.  A petit taxi only operates in the city or town, but a grand taxi operates from one to another.

  A petit taxi carries 4 passengers, three in back and 1 in front. It will pick up one passenger at a time, but then picks up others along the way. They pick up and drop off anywhere.  They take you to exactly where you want to go.  In some cities one needs to negotiate the price from point A to B, but in others it is a set price as in Ouarzazate (4dhs, about $0.50) and in Tan Tan (5dhs, about $0.55) from anywhere to anywhere within the city.

 A grand taxi takes 6 passengers.  There are two in front (plus driver) and four in the back.  The driver has one bucket seat and the two passengers share the other bucket seat.  The other four squeeze in the back seat.  A grand taxi does not move until all six seats are taken.  We usually paid for four seats in the back for the three of us because it was much more comfortable. The cost for a grand taxi is dependent on the distance.  For example, from Taroudant to Agadir a distance that takes just over an hour I think we paid 50dhs or about $6.00 each plus the extra seat.  They are a great bargain. You must catch them from the central taxi stand and they drop you at the central taxi stand at your destination.

A grand taxi is usually an old mercedes which has seen much much much better days. A petit taxi is some sub compact model (don't ask me what kind).

If only we had such a reliable and inexpensive service!!!

Argan

Cracking the nut with a rock.

Argan

Some of the ladies in Donna's village who make the Argan oil,( Faisel too).

Argan nut

This is how the nut looks first from the tree, then cracked and then ready to press the oil.

Enjoying our first evening dinner in the village....on the floor

From the main road to Donna's

Friday off to Tan Tan

We had arranged to meet Laurent after breakfast to share a grand taxi to Goulimine, but found him at the same cafe we went to for breakfast.  After fortifying ourselves for the trek we gathered our bags and checked out of the hotel.  

Our driver to Goulimine was funny and although he didn't speak a word anyone could understand we all enjoyed him.  Language here is another issue.  There are so many to chose from.  There is French, leftover from colonial times, the local Moroccan Arabic, and several Berber dialects, as well as Italian and German in tourist areas.  English is almost non-existent.  

In Goulimine we transferred to another grand taxi for the last leg of the journey to Tan Tan.  Laurent was only going as far a Goulimine, but changed his plans and continued on with us.  We arrived in Tan Tan in the late afternoon and my friend Fatima picked us up at the taxi stand.

Taroudant to Sidi Ifni- Wednesday

We took a taxi to town and then caught a grand taxi to Agadir about an hour and a quarter away.  Because we had a 2 1/2 hour wait for our bus to Tiznit, we decided to catch a petit taxi to the seaside.  We went to a cafe to have lunch - a hamburger, fries, and a beer!  Yes, a hamburger because this is the only cafe that they know of in Morocco that serves a fabulous burger.  We sat watching the waves roll in, basking in the sun.  Agadir is a tourist destination for Europeans and there were lots of them strolling the promenade.

Reluctantly, we took a petit taxi to the CTM bus station to board our bus for Tiznit.  Several hours later we arrived and caught a grand taxi for Sidi Ifni.  We went directly to our hotel.  We were not directly on the sea, but had a lovely balcony with a beautiful full sea view.  That evening we were in the Moroccan salon at the Hotel and had a very good fish dinner.  There was an interesting group from France also staying at the hotel. They were a group of about ten, all around 70 years old.  They were on their way to Mali (Timbuctou, fame) to take medical supplies. A happy, friendly group they were and such an inspiration.  This is the fourth year for them to make this trek.  

We slept with the balcony door open and the sound of the waves crashing sent us off to sleep.

In the morning we walked around town to view the architecture and look in the shops.  Ifni is a quiet town and very pleasurable to spend time in as it is completely stress free.

At about 11:00 we took a bus a little north to a place called Legezira to see the natural stone arches at the sea.  Well, the bus let us off on the road and when I looked down I almost died.  It was a loooong walk down to the beach .  I made it, but all the while wondering how I would ever get back up to the road, seriously.  There are three or four rustic cafes right on the beach and we happily lazed there for the afternoon.

A young man came in and I eventually began to talk to him.  His name was Laurent and was from Normandy.  Hours later we all began the ascent to the road.  About half way up (I was near death) a car stopped and gave me a ride to the summit.  I thank God for that lovely retired couple from Britain.  We were waiting some time on the road for a ride - bus, taxi, stranger???  Eventually a car stopped and the two locals told us to pile in.  Yes, Linda, Donna, Gail, and Laurent did and we were driven back to Sidi Ifni. Laurent asked us what we were doing for dinner and suggested the Nomad restaurant so we made reservations and put our dinner orders in for 7:30pm.

It was around happy hour when we returned to our hotel and went to the upper terrace/bar and ordered a drink.  Shortly after a gentleman came over to talk to us.  Mohamed, a native Morocaan from Ifni living in Sweden, sat down with us and we all spent a few hours talking.  When we said we had to excuse ourselves to go to dinner he asked to go, too.  So, after HE paid our bar bill, we all walked the two blocks to the Nomad.  What a fine place at night.  It was small and intimate with seating for only about 25 inside and about 20 out on the terrace.  Laurent joined us and after some wine our dinners arrived.  I had camel brochettes.  We really enjoyed our candlelit dinner and our two new companions.  Mohamed, we found out owns a cafe and lodging establishment at Legazira. He invited us there for the next day, but told him we had been there all afternoon.  He treated us ladies to our dinner and excused himself to go home, saying that he had a busy day coming up.

Back to our hotel, tired and ready for sleep.

It's Not Possible

I am sorry, but it is just not possible to upload photos away from Ouarzazate.  I do hope that when I return on Sunday or Monday that it will work again.

Meanwhile, I will attempt to tell you about our amazing trip without the aid of photos.

So, after a good rest that first night at Donna's we set out in the morning for our day in Taroudant.  The flags were still up and people were still waiting for the King.  Taroudant is surrounded by the ancient city wall and we entered via the beautiful Riad Salam, a gorgeous old hotel.  The long walkway to it was a beautiful palm lined water feature.  Once entering the city centre we walked to another P.C. volunteer's apartment.  He is a retired IBM man who works with small business development there. A Moroccan, Abdul Karim joined us and the five of us then took a horse and carriage to the "olive oil man" after stopping for coffee.  We entered a very dark old white washed cement cave-like structure and the first thing we saw was tons of olives in a round cement vat to which a horse is tied. The horse goes round and round crushing the olives.  Next was the pressing area where a very old five foot tall press extracts the oil and it drains into a tank in the ground.  We all purchased some of that day's freshly pressed oil, but not before we did a taste test with fresh bread.  This is pure 1st press oil.  Out the back was where the remains of the olives were thrown and heaped high.  This sludge is what would be used for a second or third pressing, but not in this place.  It was quite an amazing experience.  Our next stop was for a delicious fruit salad. We shopped a bit and I bought some Moroccan spice mix.  Another horse and carriage ride around the city alleys and around the perimeter to see the wall.  Taroudant is a real Moroccan city, not a tourist one like Marrakech and it was such a pleasure to go around without being hassled and to see real city life.  The weather was perfect with the ever present blue sky and a temperature of about 25C.

We took a taxi back to the village.  I was so fortunate to be here at Donna's because her site is a new women's co-operative for making Argan oil.  The women were fantastic and they wanted to show me exactly how the nut is cracked with a stoned and then again to get to the "almond".  They then press it by hand extracting the oil.  It is a very long hands on process.  No machinery is used.  They wanted their picture taken!!! Two of the younger women were also studying English and spoke at about a level.  One young woman lead us to the door of her house where she was the keeper of the oil.  I purchased the last bottles of oil and a few bars of Argan soap.  All I can say is WOW, what an experience to see this small operation.  If you google Argan oil, you will see how the West has taken to it.  Very small bottles 50ml can cost up to $99.00 and who knows how pure it is. I have been using it on my skin everyday now in the hopes that it will work it's magic on me.  Donna said that if I want to purchase more, just to email her and when they have made more she will post it to me, or my friends Auday and Fatima, from Tan Tan, Morocco, can bring it to Canada.

What a luxury to have been able to see this co-op and the lovely ladies who work so hard to make the oil.  This is not a tourist stop with big tour buses stopping.  This is the real thing.

We had a late dinner and discussed our plans for our journey the next day.

Donna's village

After arriving in Taroudant, Donna met us and we took a taxi to her village.  Her house is only a few metres from the main road, but a real step back in time.  The villagers were so friendly.  One lady brought us fresh eggs for breakfast and the children were most curious about the "visitors".  There was an outdoor "oven" to bake bread, chickens, roosters, lambs, and many types of fruits and vegetables.  The view towards the main road was of the snow-capped Atlas. 

Donna had a lovely homey one-floor, plus roof, house.  Luckily, Donna gave up her ponge for me to sleep on and slept on a very thin foam mattress while Linda slept on the floor.

We spent the evening relaxing and chatting over dinner with a glass or two of red wine.  It was early to bed as we had a full day of sightseeing planned for Tuesday.

It is nice and warm here.  The night temps are a tropical 12-13C, whereas, at Ouarzazate they now range from -1 to 3C (no heating).

I am trying to post photos, but because it is Sunday the internet is terribly slow even one photo at a time. Sorry, it's a no go uploading photos tonight. You will get a series of photos from Donna's when I am able to upload, hopefully tomorrow morning.

Photos

Banners like this one were everywhere.

Hello again

It's 2:00 pm on Saturday and I am finally back online!  We have been travelling since Monday noon and what a fantastic week it has been.  The exception being that my internet modem is soooo slow now that I am in the far south.

I will attempt to update this trip.

Monday at noon I met Linda at the bus station for our 6 hour trip to Taroudant.  All went well and as you know the King was expected in town that day, but he did not make it (he is Moroccan, after all).  Along the road leading to Taroudant the flags were out, barriers were up, and some people were waiting.  There were only some people because they know that he seldom arrives when it is said that he will!!

A few photos of the flags-in-waiting.

The internet is so slow uploading.  I have tried for more than one hour, so I am going to stop now and try uploading later.

Temperatures

Two nights ago, while we were emailing back and forth re our upcoming trip.....

Linda, in the mountains was under several heavy blankets on her computer.

I was wrapped in a blanket at my computer table.

Donna was sitting on top of her blanket on the bed emailing.

While I am having 1C at night, Linda is 0 or less and Donna has 12C.  

For sure it is easier to live in KW with a furnace than here, at night.  However, during the day it is a different story.  Which would I prefer?  Here, with an electric or propane heater for a few hours in the evening.

We are catching the bus at 12:30 pm tomorow for Taroudant.

Today the landlord, Houssaine, a carpenter, and a plumber were here.  The carpenter planed the door leading to the courtyard outside the kitchen.  It closes now!  The plumber attacked and thought he fixed the leaky water problem in the bathroom, but when I got home just now, there is much water on the floor.  C'est la vie!!!!  Houssaine acted as translator with the landlord when I said unless he gave me a rent reduction, I was leaving.  In true Berber fashion he took the offer I made him and offered a higher price. When I raised my voice and said that I was Canadian and not a Berber woman and that my price was final and not up for bargaining, he accepted.  I am happy because I really did not want to leave my house.  I am happy here, but did not feel he lived up to his end of the agreement and would have left.

I will be away for up to two weeks and it will be nice to come "home".

Hope for some good photos and info  from the Argon co-op, Tan Tan, and  our trip to the disputed area of Western Sahara.

The King is Coming

There is a little hiccough in our travel plans on the CTM bus for Monday.  Here is an excerpt from an email Donna sent us -

Anyway.. just an FYI - the king is coming to Ait Aizza on Monday, late afternoon apparently!!!  Ait Aizza is about 2k from me. The CTM comes from Ouz past my site, then thru Ait Aizza then Taroudant.  So you might have some delay.

 

Who knows what it will mean.. maybe there won't be as many taxi's, will they block the road? You might go a different way around Ait Aizza??

I was going to go and see him, and I also might not get a bus/taxi to Taroudant easily? 

 

If you get stuck in traffic.. and there's lots of red flags text me!!!!  You could get off there (Ait Aizza).. (say "Copag" which is the big factory the king is coming to see). 

 

But we'll play it by ear.. I plan on meeting you in Taroudant - but I'll let you know if there are problems with traffic etc.

 

Maybe you'll show up the same time as the king & see him!!

Keeping our fingers crossed that we get to Taroudant and maybe see the king too.

 

The Cafe Crowd

Yesterday I met with the Swiss photographer, Rosa.  We had several hours to chat over drinks.  Drinks here mean coffee or tea.  The national drink is mint tea also known as Berber whiskey.  Rosa has been living in Morocco for three years and before that in India for two years.  She thinks that this might be her destination for the foreseeable future.  It was interesting to note that she doesn't appear to have assimilated too much with the locals and is pretty much independent.  We will get together again after I return to Oz from my next trip.

I then spent an hour or so in the medina window shopping, but returned to the area of shops where the really nice shopkeepers I talked to a few days ago are.  I got serious about looking at their goods and after finding out that I have a Berber "family" here gave me the real price on items without the haggling. Didn't buy yet, but will surely give these guys business.  I was tired and thought I would sit for an early dinner.  Right there, was a hole in the wall cafe and I use that word loosely.  It was just a few bare tables in the alley.  They had the best rotisserie chicken.  A few of the shopkeepers sat down to visit and one young man spent the entire time there (keeping an eye on his shop).  Each of them took turns going to the mosque for a few minutes, as it was prayer time.  They introduced me to a man, Denis. Such an interesting fellow.  He is from Hull, Quebec.  After eight trips to Oz, he married a Berber woman and lives in a village just outside the city limits along with this group of shopkeepers. He was dressed in the Moroccan djellaba and had three full layers of clothing on underneath along with a fake fur Russian style hat.  What a sight!  When I see him next, I will ask for a photo.

Our plans for the trip next week are set now and I am really excited.  Temperatures will be between 24-29 daytime and 13-16 at night -  Woo hoo!!!!!

It is so nice to have the time to slowly get to know my city and to be able to plan for trips in the future, a luxury to be treasured.

 I will be away from Oz until around the 20th and then for ten days after Jan.22 Houssaine is on holidays and he, some of his family, and I will be taking trips, so I am not sure if I will keep this house or not.  Will talk to Houssaine.  If I get a super rent reduction, I'll consider it.  I might only be here for six or seven nights out of the month.

You guessed it, the plumber still has not come.

News for today

Tomorrow at 2pm I am going to meet with a female photographer from Swizterland for lunch.  She has been living here in Ouarzazate for three years.  Should be an interesting look at how she sees it here.

My plans for Taroudant and Tan Tan are changing by the minute.  Now Linda wants to go to Taroudant and then both Linda and Donna (Argan lady) want to continue on to Tan Tan with me.  We are hopefully going to decide, if it works for all of us, tomorrow. It would be awesome, if we could go together.

Fatima is at the train station in Casa at the moment, not knowing if she will go to Kech and then by bus to Tan Tan or stop in Agadir for a few nights.  Luckily, Auday, her husbnd, is looking after all of us and our travel woes.

Houssaine and his family are carrying on as per their normal family and work life.

Life here is not like at home.  Plans you say? What is the meaning of the word plan???

I am still tending my poor battered feet.  I have soaked them in Argan oil and they do feel a lot better.  Gross photo to come.

My bird still visits regularly.  Actually I don't even know if it is here or not at the moment.  I just make sure that when I move to another room I talk to it first to let it know I am coming.

I now have a cat who loves to come late mornings and sun itself on the front terrace.

THE PLUMBER STILL HAS NOT COME!!!

Nighty Night

Argan Oil

I am so happy because I just found out that I will be visiting an Argan Oil co-operative in Taroudant on my way to Tan Tan.

If you don't know about Argan Oil and want to, just google.  It is an amazing oil and Fatima introduced me to it in 2001, although I was not ready at that time.  We can buy a product called Moroccan Oil (for hair) in Canada, but it only contains a small amount of the oil.  Here in Morocco the oil is available many places, but often diluted with other oils.  Even at some co-operatives they have "learned" to dilute to scam tourists and sometimes Moroccans, too.  In the summer Houssaine stopped at a co-op on the touristic route between here and Agadir to buy pure oil, but when he got home he found it to be diluted. They threw it out.

I bought some oil from Linda who gets it from another Peace Corp volunteer from an Argan co-op, so we know it is pure.

Well, I am going to spend time in Taroudant with the Argan lady (P.C.).  I will be going to her co-op to see the real thing, not the tourist sites.  I know I will buy more. This is something I am really looking forward to with many thanks to Linda for this introduction.

P.S. The plumber still has not come.

         My bird came for a short visit today.

Reflections

I am in my fourth week here.Things are really starting to jell and I feel more at home.

When I was making plans for this trip Houssaine (the Baali family) welcomed me to stay at their place, but I insisted on staying by myself in a hotel.  It was then that Houssaine said that it would be better if I had a house so that I would not feel like a foreigner.  Well, let me tell you I think he meant a tourist, not a foreigner because here I am really a foreigner, but definitely not a tourist. 

Now, after three weeks, the man across the street where I buy my bread greets me with great enthusiasm, but in Italian!  The clerks at the Super Marche know me.  The men at my local supermarket know me.  Even some waiters at my fave cafes know me. I actually had a conversation with the man at the fixed priced store today.  This is unusual because here, in this very conservative Berber city, men and women do not connect, even in casual conversation.  At least, that is the way I see it.   I feel comfortable taking the taxi home and can even recognize my neighbourhood when I am right there.I no longer need the note Houssaine wrote for me to give the taxi driver.  Today I ventured out of my comfort zone and then walked to the square and had some idea of where I was going.  

This is really a test to see how well I adapt to LIVING in an environment where there is almost no English, spoken or understood, by the majority. 

Only Quebec has any presence here.  I noticed that in 2001 and it hasn't changed much.  I met a woman from Morocco, at Charles de Gaulle Airport coming in, and when I told her I was from Canada she said how could that be when I spoke English.  English Canada does a poor job promoting tourism to and fro, that's for sure.

I feel confident enough now to embark on my solo trek to Tan Tan.  I am taking the road less travelled and not going by way of Marrakesh and Agadir (been there, done that too many times).  I am going by way of Taroudant by bus.  The journey will take twelve to sixteen hours, but I plan to spend the night in two or three places, so perhaps it will take me three or four days or more.

It is a good feeling to be ready to head out as a solo female who doesn't speak Arabic,

Berber or any French to count.

It's True

When reading, I often hear Morocco referred to as a cold country with a hot sun. Being my last two trips here were in summer, I disbelieved this description.  Now, however, I know it is true. In the winter it is almost freezing at night, in these parts, but in the afternoon out in the sun your skin burns.  

Today I stopped at Chez Nabil for a late lunch and sat on the terrace.  Once again, the blazing sun warmed up my chilled bones.  

In Casablanca, Marrakech, and Tan Tan (where I am going) it is not nearly as cold at night, but in the desert and here on the edge of it, I can say that KW is better.  At least we have central heat. That being said, it is only cold at night and in the morning.  There is no snow or icy roads to deal with.

Several times since I have been here I have had birds fly in to visit.  Usually they only stay a few minutes to say hi and leave.  There are no screens.  Right now I have a bird visiting, but he/she looks like she intends to stay for awhile.  I think she is in the bedroom right now.  

When I fist got here and it happened I was distraught because in our family a bird in, or trying to get in, is a very bad sign - usually sickness or death.  When I told Houssaine about my visitor he smiled and was happy.  He said that in Berber culture that is a sign of good fortune.  I prefer his superstition to mine and I think it is true this time.  These birds do not come into the room I am in and they don't stare you in the eye which has always been "the messenger bird or watcher bird" according to grandmother.  Any thoughts, anyone???

New Year's Day 2011

It's up bright and early to check out, grab a quick coffee at the hotel cafe and a breakfast to go from the juice bar.  Off to the train station and back to Marrakech.

In Marrakech we stop for lunch at, you would never guess, McDonalds.  Yes, Linda always stops there when at the train station.  Keeps her from getting too homesick, I guess and there really are no burger shops, of any note, in Morocco.

Taxi for a couple of blocks to the CTM bus station (just a little tired), and then off to repeat our journey south, however, it is pitch black and the whole drive is soooo different.

The driver let Linda off in her village and she had to climb the gravel road and find her house in the dark, although she did have a tiny flashlight on her cell phone.

Leaving the cities, the High Atlas, the pass, and gradually descending into the valley and seeing Ouarzazate again made me realize just how isolated this city is.  It rises out of the earth in the middle of nowhere. It truly is the "doorway to the desert". 

I got home about 10:30 pm and guess what? The plumber still hasn't come!!! Thankfully, we shut off the water when we left.

Today I have stayed home and because the internet is so slow on Saturday nights and Sundays it has taken me hours to update this blog.

The whole trip was perfect in every way.

I apologize for my lack of photographic skill.

All in All

It was a fantastic evening from being screened outside, to see if our names were on the list, being greeted with a flute of Champaign by the maitre d and others, excellent food, superb entertainment, to being escorted to our waiting taxi to take us home.

I could not have asked for more.

Our pockets were empty, but our hearts and minds were full of wonderful memories.

Upstairs

Rick's has two floors and it appeared to us that those on the second floor were observers of the night's festivities as the bar, musicians, and the midnight hour all happened on the first floor.  Mind you, the roulette table and the oyster bar were on the second floor along with another drinks bar.  Our waiter actually went up and brought our oysters to us!!! Anyway here is a shot looking up at midnight.

Ringing in 2011

On the dance floor we joyously brought in 2011.  The wait staff and all the kitchen staff were called out to celebrate with us.  It was so great to see them enjoying themselves so whole-heartedly. This was the waiter from the next table.